Mastering Foot Sequencing in Climbing

Sequencing Feet The recommended prerequisite for sequencing feet is mastery of doing basic hand sequences. In this earlier article, we mentioned your hand sequence informs your foot sequence. As we are aiming for cross-body tension whenever possible, the hand we are pulling off of will determine which of our feet we want carrying the weight. […]
Steep Overhanging Skills For Advanced Climbers

Climbing steep routes (10 to 30 degrees) at higher grades requires a particular focus on applying core principles. At these angles, as with advanced climbing, the feel of efficient positions change from lower angles. More work is being done by the arms. The tendency, therefore, is to over focus on the upper body, and ignore […]
Twist-Locking Series: A Final Word on Twist-Locks

A Word of Caution Twist-locks are a valuable, and in some cases essential, skill for improving your flexibility and efficiency on the wall. They open up the use of higher feet, create leverage for longer moves, and reduce the effort (in certain circumstances) of getting your hips into the wall. That being said, they are […]
Twist-Locking Series: The Complete Guidelines

Twist-Locks Twist-locking refers to a family of skills, all of which are based on the same underlying concepts: the twist, and the lock. These two concepts provide a new, and flexible, approach to “locking out” our lower body, and therefore reducing the weight our upper body needs to carry. The family of skills include back-steps, […]
Twist-Locking Series: Straight-Arming and the Upper Body Twist

Upper Body Twists So far in our articles of twist-locks we have concentrated on our lower body, which is where the bulk of the work happens. But if you noticed at the very start, we mentioned that we were discussing the first twist. Is there a second? Yes, there is. Twist-Locks and Side-Pulls Before we […]
Twist-Locking Series: The Basics of the Reverse Flag

The Most Specialized of the Skills Twist-locking refers to a family of skills, all of which are based on the same underlying concepts: the twist, and the lock. These two concepts provide a new, and flexible, approach to “locking out” our lower body, and therefore reducing the weight our upper body needs to carry. The […]
Twist-Locking Series: Prevent Back-Stepping Spinouts

Spin Out vs the Barn Door Spin out is a phenomenon that feels similar to the barn door, but has a different underlying cause. A barn door occurs when a climber fails to obey cross-body tension. This results in a lack of balance causing the body to “open up” from the plane of the wall. […]
Redpoint vs Onsight vs Flash

“I onsighted that route! I thought it would be at my redpoint level, but I onsighted it!” The climbing world is full of wacky words and phrases, many unknown even to long-time climbers. While you don’t have to have the inside scoop on climbing slang to be successful on the wall, it can be helpful to know what other climbers are […]
The Ultimate Guide To Dyno Tips and Tricks

Now that you understand the mechanics of double dynos and single dynos, we will finish this skill with some final tips to allow you to hone your abilities and gain greater distance and precision. The Lower you Go, the Further you Throw One of the best ways to ruin a dyno is to start with […]
Am I Ready To Learn How To Lead Climb?

For many, lead climbing is what draws us into the sport of rock climbing. Do you ever ask yourself why you climb? What is it about this sport that draws you in? The brutal physicality of it? It could be the puzzling beta. Or you love the community climbing has given you that sense of […]