Top Skills to Enhance Your Roof Climbing Technique

What is a Roof in Climbing? A roof in climbing is a severely overhanging face. There is no hard and fast rule, but a steep face typically becomes a roof when the angle gets to about 60 degrees past the vertical. Horizontal roofs are generally close to or exactly parallel to the ground. Your Hips […]
Exaggerated Weight Shifting in Rock Climbing

Refined Core Skill Exaggerated weight shifting is considered a refined core skill. Because of the problems with relying on “feel” at steeper angles, climbers need to be almost over-focused on weight shifting, all for front-stepping, twist locks, and flagging. Front-Stepping In front-stepping, climbers have a tendency to short the swing. This simply means they fail […]
Mastering Foot Sequencing in Climbing

Sequencing Feet The recommended prerequisite for sequencing feet is mastery of doing basic hand sequences. In this earlier article, we mentioned your hand sequence informs your foot sequence. As we are aiming for cross-body tension whenever possible, the hand we are pulling off of will determine which of our feet we want carrying the weight. […]
Steep Overhanging Skills For Advanced Climbers

Climbing steep routes (10 to 30 degrees) at higher grades requires a particular focus on applying core principles. At these angles, as with advanced climbing, the feel of efficient positions change from lower angles. More work is being done by the arms. The tendency, therefore, is to over focus on the upper body, and ignore […]
Twist-Locking Series: A Final Word on Twist-Locks

A Word of Caution Twist-locks are a valuable, and in some cases essential, skill for improving your flexibility and efficiency on the wall. They open up the use of higher feet, create leverage for longer moves, and reduce the effort (in certain circumstances) of getting your hips into the wall. That being said, they are […]
Twist-Locking Series: The Complete Guidelines

Twist-Locks Twist-locking refers to a family of skills, all of which are based on the same underlying concepts: the twist, and the lock. These two concepts provide a new, and flexible, approach to “locking out” our lower body, and therefore reducing the weight our upper body needs to carry. The family of skills include back-steps, […]
Twist-Locking Series: Straight-Arming and the Upper Body Twist

Upper Body Twists So far in our articles of twist-locks we have concentrated on our lower body, which is where the bulk of the work happens. But if you noticed at the very start, we mentioned that we were discussing the first twist. Is there a second? Yes, there is. Twist-Locks and Side-Pulls Before we […]
Twist-Locking Series: The Basics of the Reverse Flag

The Most Specialized of the Skills Twist-locking refers to a family of skills, all of which are based on the same underlying concepts: the twist, and the lock. These two concepts provide a new, and flexible, approach to “locking out” our lower body, and therefore reducing the weight our upper body needs to carry. The […]
Twist-Locking Series: Advanced Drop-Knees Techniques

Use Drop-Knees with Steeper Climbs Steep climbing is where drop knees really shine. The ability of the oppositional foot to keep a lock on getting the hips over the heel and the twist at getting the hips against the wall is invaluable. Deadpointing and Drop-Knees When deadpointing, climbers should aim to begin the move in […]
Twist-Locking Series: The Basics of Drop-Knees

What is Twist-Locking Twist-locking refers to a family of skills, all of which are based on the same underlying concepts: the Twist, and the Lock. These two concepts provide a new, and flexible, approach to “locking out” our lower body, and therefore reducing the weight our upper body needs to carry. The family of skills […]